Used electronics value calculator

How fast electronics lose value

Consumer electronics have the steepest depreciation of any everyday category. A typical device drops around 30% the moment it's opened, then loses roughly a quarter of its remaining value each year. The reason isn't wear — it's obsolescence. Every new model release resets the ceiling on what buyers will pay for the last one, so the calendar matters more than how carefully you treated it.

That said, the curve isn't uniform across device types. Here's how the major categories tend to behave.

Phones

Flagship phones hold value best in the first year, then fall off a cliff when the successor launches. Battery health is the single biggest condition lever — a battery under about 85% capacity can knock 15–20% off. Unlocked devices are worth more than carrier-locked ones, and a cracked screen or bad Face ID/fingerprint sensor drops a phone into "for parts" pricing fast.

Laptops

Laptops depreciate more gently than phones but are dragged down by spec creep. Apple silicon MacBooks have held value unusually well; Windows ultrabooks depend heavily on how current the CPU generation looks. Batteries, hinge wear, and keyboard condition drive the biggest deductions. Keep the original charger — a missing charger is an easy $30–60 haircut.

Tablets, consoles and cameras

Tablets track phones but decline a bit slower. Game consoles hold value remarkably well mid-generation and can even spike near end-of-life when a model is discontinued — a case where the demand slider earns its keep. Cameras and lenses are the exception to the whole category: quality glass barely depreciates, and discontinued lenses sometimes appreciate.

Where to sell used electronics

You have three broad routes, and the right one depends on whether you value speed or maximum return:

• Instant trade-in — services quote you from the model and condition, send a prepaid label, and pay within days. Lowest effort, slightly below top dollar. Best when you just want it gone.
• Peer-to-peer marketplaces — you set the price and keep more, but you handle listings, buyers, and shipping. Best return on well-maintained devices.
• Local marketplace — cash, no shipping, but you're limited to local demand and meetups.

Before you list: quick prep that adds value

• Wipe and sign out. Factory reset, remove your account, and turn off activation locks (Find My, Google FRP). Buyers pay less for anything still tied to your account.
• Report battery health honestly. Screenshot the battery stats — proof of good health justifies a higher price.
• Find the box and cables. Original packaging and the correct charger routinely add 5–10%.
• Photograph the real thing. Actual photos in good light beat stock images and cut lowball offers.
• Have the IMEI/serial ready. It confirms the device isn't blacklisted and speeds up any trade-in verification.

Frequently asked questions

Does battery health really change the price that much?

For phones and laptops, yes. A degraded battery is the most common reason a device gets graded down from "good" to "fair," and it's the first thing buyers and trade-in services check. Below ~85% health, expect a noticeable deduction.

Should I sell before or after the new model launches?

Before, almost always. Resale value for last year's model typically steps down the week a successor is announced. If a launch is weeks away and you're on the fence, selling now usually nets more.

Is trade-in or private sale better?

Private sale usually nets 10–25% more for a clean, in-demand device, but takes time and effort. Trade-in wins on speed and certainty. Run both: get an instant quote as your floor, then decide if the extra private-sale return is worth the hassle.

What if my device is broken?

Even non-working electronics have value — several trade-in services buy damaged devices for parts and refurbishment. Set condition to "poor" here for a realistic parts-level estimate.